Iran 2009: Chaikhane in Isfahan

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Chaikhane in Isfahan

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itinerary

Traveling period: 16-23 October 2009
Visited cities: Tehran, Isfahan, Shiraz, Yazd

Itinerary
16-Oct-09
Departing Doha to Tehran, I flied the same morning to Shiraz with Iran Air.
Arriving in Shiraz Airport, by chartered driver/guide (Mr.Hussein), I visited Persepolis, Naghs-e Rostam/Rajab, and Pasargadae.
Stay in Shiraz.
17-Oct-09
Sightseeing Shiraz by myself.
Visiting Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque, Bagh-e Naranjestan, Madraseh-ye Khan, Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh, Masjed-e Jameh-ye Atigh, Aramgah-e Sa’di, Aramgah-e Hafez, Imamzadeh-ye Ali Ebn-e Hamze, and the bazaars.
Night flight to Tehran. Picked-up by Hamed and his brother Ali-Reza at Mehrabad Airport. Stayed in Hamed house.
18-Oct-09
With Hamed and family, visited Sa'd Abad Museum Complex (Green Palace and White Palace). To Bazaar. Dinner at Shiva family house. Chaikhane at Darband.
19-Oct-09
Visited Azadi Tower, International Trade Fair, National Jewels Museum. Night train to Yazd.
20-Oct-09
Arrived in Yazd early morning.
Visited Amir Chakmaq Complex, Water Museum, Jameh Mosque, Bogheh-ye Sayyed Roknaddin, Khan-e Lari, Alexander’s Prison, several traditional hotels.
21-Oct-09
Morning, went to Isfahan by bus. Met Masee on the bus.
Masee and Jalil took me around the bridges and Emam Square.
22-Oct-09
Visited Jameh Mosque, Imam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Al Qapu Palace, Chehel Sotun Palace, Hasht Behest Palace, Abbasi Hotel.
By night train, to Tehran.
23-Oct-09
Arrived in Tehran and went to Airport.

summary

One thing about traveling to Iran is Iranian people. Iranian is one of the friendliest people I ever met during my traveling. In contradiction, the driving manner is one of the worst in the world, they are so impatient on the road. The government is really strict in Islamic regulation, i.e. no alcohol, women has to wear head cover, including foreigners, only Iranian movies allowed, not married boy and girl are not allowed to walk together etc. Despite the Islamic regulation, Iran is good for traveling for its beautiful mosques and heritages with breathtaking tiles, mosaics, mirror and paintings. The price is cheap and the food is good. Though most Iranian people don’t speak English, they are really willing to help if you ask something. I found also a lot of educated people speaking English.

Guide book : Lonely Planet Iran 2008, Arukikata Iran '09-'10'

Money
- USD 1 = IR 9870 at airport Bank Mellia. Commission IR 14,000.

Highlight Five

1. Iranian friendliness. In train booth, they gave me food they brought. They gave me bus tickets when I did not have it. They treated me lunch, dinner, tea.
2. Esfahan Nagsh-e Jehan Square, with breathtaking Emam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Al Qapu Palace and chaykhaneys.
3. Shiraz beautiful mosques, Nasir-ol-Molk, Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh, and Imamzadeh-ye Ali Ebn-e Hamze.
4. Visiting Yazd traditional hotels and stayed in one of them.
5. Iranian food, dining at Hamed and Shiva’s house, Esfahan Beryani and Soufran Ice Cream, Yazd Turkish Ice Cream.

My Review

Sightseeing and others:
- Tehran: National Jewels Museum. The Security is very tight. No camera is allowed.
- Tehran: Azadi Tower. Good view (Mehrabad airport and bus terminal) from above. If lucky, may be allowed to go to rooftop.
- Yazd: Ateshkadeh, went about 18:00 but closed.
- Pasargadae: Unless if you are a history/ ruin mania, maybe it was not worth it. Another disappointing UNESCO World Heritage site?!
- Shiraz: Naranjestan Garden, IR 30,000. Only small palm garden. Next door Khan-e Zinat ol-Molk is more worth it with the underground museum.
- Shiraz: Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque. Though the guard refused to open the curtain, still the west room is very beautiful in the morning due to sun light through its stained glass.
- Shiraz: Imamzadeh-ye Ali Ebn-e Hamze. Beautiful mirror work. Free entrance.
- Shiraz: Madraseh-ye Khan (free entrance). To climb to roof top, just go straight opposite the entrance gate across the garden, in the left corner there are stairs up. However, the view is not that stunning.
- Yazd: Zulhane (Iranian training session), can be viewed in Water Reservoir with 5 Wind Towers near Amir Chakhmaq Complex. Fee is IR 10,000, every 18:00 and 21:00.

Money
- USD 1 = IR 9870 at airport Bank Mellia. Commission IR 14,000.

Transportation and Travel Agent
- Tehran: Shuttle bus from IKIA to city IR 20,000, will pass Mehrabad Airport (about 20 minutes). By taxi IR 200,000.
- Tehran: There is free internet at IKIA.
- Isfahan: Train station is very far from the city.
- Tehran: From train station to IKIA, from the train station, walk to Metro Shoosh Station. Out of train station, turn right and walk straight about 500m and the Metro station is in the same side with the train station (LP map is wrong). From Metro Shoosh, ride the metro in the same (Red) line to the south end Haram-e Motahhar Station, which is near to under construction Imam Khomeini Holy Shrine. From this Metro station to IKIA by chartered taxi IR 60,000 (about 15 minutes ride). Taxi ride from the train station direct to IKIA may cost IR 200,000.
- Yazd: Bus to Isfahan costed IR 40,000. From 7:00 every hour departed from the bus terminal. Arrive in Isfahan Terminal Jey (east terminal). To the city center with taxi.
- Yazd: From city center to bus terminal, take public bus from Behesti Square south, going south. Bus ticket IR 4,000.
- Bus ticket: If you don’t have one, and there is no ticket selling booth, try to purchase one from passengers waiting in the bus stop, and most of the time, they will give the ticket for free. Iranian friendliness! I received free ticket from other passenger in Tehran and Isfahan.
- Yazd: To Ateshgade and Dakhmeh by chartered taxi was IR 70,000. Abdul is recommended driver who can speak fluent English. He can be found around Water Museum.
- Shiraz: Chartered taxi with Hossein Soltani (h-soltani-n@hotmail.com, 0917-713-1517, recommended in Lonely Planet) to Persepolis + Naghsh-e Rostam/Rajab + Pasargadae + picked-up at the Airport was USD 60. Hussein is middle 40 years and well English-spoken and well knowledge.
- Shiraz: Chartered taxi from City Center to the Airport, IR 30,000, about 20 minutes in the evening.
- Tehran: Night train to Yazd, IR 80,000, 6 beds in 1 room (sheet provided), including snack, hot tea, and water. Departed Tehran on 20:00 and arrived in Yazd at 4:00 in the morning.
- Isfahan: Night train to Tehran, IR 60,000, departed 22:50, arrived about 7:00. 1 bottle drinking water provided.
- Shiraz: from city center to Hafez and Sa’di Tomb, take bus No.2 from Sa’di St.
- Shiraz: Pars Tourist Agency, gave wrong information saying that train between Tehran and Yazd is not existing. The train booking office is on Sa’di St.

Accommodation
- Isfahan: Nagsh-e Jehan Hotel (recommended in Arukikata). Located on the Main St. near Imam Husein Square, next to Nobahar Restaurant in Lonely Planet. Good location and good value. Single (twin bed, single occupancy) IR 200,000, breakfast included. Used by local businessmen and travelers. Private shower room with hot water, squat toilet.
- Isfahan: Amir Kabir Hostel, IR 130,000 when inquired. Didn’t stay here actually.
- Yazd: Malek-o-Tojjar (tel. 622-4060, in LP and Arukikata). Single (twin beds room with single occupancy) IR 200,000, breakfast included. Old Caravanserai, 200 years operating hotel. Located inside Panjeh-Ali Bazar. Panjeh-Ali Bazaar street is the 3rd street from Beheshti Square Roundabout (north west street) on the right. There is banner on the bazaar ceiling, only visible if coming from north. Traditional/classic environment with old mirror room, and several rooms with old painting on the ceiling. Split AC, hot water, and western toilet. Good value and good location. The staff, Amir, is a young and fun guy, though not-so informative.
- Shiraz: Kowsar Guest House (recommended in Arukikata), single (twin room with single occupancy) is IR. 150,000 without breakfast, shared shower/toilet. There is water tap in the room. Water chiller outside the room. Located on Anvari St., same with Sasan Hotel (in LP, IR 200,000 single) and Anvari Hotel (in LP, IR 170,000 single). Also near Eram Hotel on the main street.

Eating
- Isfahan: Beryani Azam (recommended in LP and Arukikata www.beryaniazam.com). On the main street. IR 35,000 (beryani + soup + drink). Biryani is Isfahan traditional food and this shop is popular amongst local.
- Isfahan: Safron ice cream at an ice cream stall located in the north west corner of Khaju Bridge. IR 5,000. Recommended. Yummy yellow ice cream with white starch.
- Isfahan: Resalat Restaurant, Kebab for 3 persons, IR 170,000. On a small street west of the main street. Recommended by local.
- Isfahan: Qeysarieh Tea Shop in Emam Square (in LP and Arukikata). Tea + butter cookie was IR 15,000. Crowded at sunset time with tourist want to see the Emam Square from the roof.
- Isfahan: Azadegan Tea House (in LP and Arukikata). Tea + cookie was IR 15,000. Nice decoration with many things hanging on the ceiling. “No Photo” was indicated in the shop, but nobody said anything when I took photo.
- Yazd: Hammam-e Khan. Stew + drink was IR 50,000.
- Shiraz: Ice cream at bazaar, IR 5,000. Ice cream at Sa’di Tomb underground fish pool was IR 10,000.
- Persepolis: Parsian Restaurant. A large restaurant on the way to Persepolis. Stew + rice + salad bar + drink, IR 50,000.
- Tehran: in Darband mountain, lots of Chaikhane along the street climbing up to the mountain.Yazd: Nemoner Sandwich (in LP), camel burger + softdrink was IR 15,000.